Archtop’s sound holes

I’ve just been working on the Archtop’s sound holes (can’t really call them F holes, can I?). The top plate is fixed to a template which has the holes cut-out, full-size and in the exact position.

My Dremel is then set-up as a pin-router- all the clamps are to ensure rigidity in an attempt to eliminate any chatter from the cutter. In the photo below, you can just see how the pin, which the template is held against, is aligned with the cutter.

And then we route! I do a number of passes, incrementing the depth of cut 1mm at a time.

Once cut out, the next stage is to bind the holes (something that I feel strongly about) with black veneer. On the first few Archtops that I made, I used a soldering iron as a small diameter bending iron, in order to form the veneer to shape, but after some experimentation, I now soak the veneer, then put it in a zip lock plastic bag, pop it the microwave for 30 seconds and it bends with ease around these simple formers.

The veneer is glued in place and after a good clean-up and ready for the next stage: tone bars.

Archtop #5; making the neck blank

 I’ve been putting together the neck blank for Archtop #5; here’s the head using the burr walnut veneer that I showed you in the previous video.

And here’s the video showing how I got there. It includes some grain-filling with cyanoacrylate- “and Kids, don’t try this at home!

Archtop Mandolin #5

I’ve started work on the next of my archtop mandolins; this will be #5 in the series. A while ago a bought a lovely piece of figured American Black Walnut which I hoped I could convert into backs and sides for two mandolins………

Archtop #4 Completed

The fourth in my series of Archtop mandolins is now complete and happily residing with its new owner in Scotland. Below are some photos and a video for you. I must say that I am extremely pleased with this instrument!

Archtop #4 begins

Well my friends, it’s time to start work on Archtop #4. But firstly, I sincerely hope that anyone (and their loved ones) who reads this blog is keeping well and safe. With the current Covid-19 situation, and with both Amanda and I having “underlying health conditions”, I’m trying not to consider the possibility of illness and not being able to complete something I start. Strange times indeed!
OK, head in gear………..
For the back and sides, I’m using pommele sapele; it’s a beautiful wood and was lucky enough to get hold of a decent size board; usually you only see it in veneer form.

Not being 100% sure about its bending properties, I wanted to cut the sides from the board and bend them first. If all goes well, then cut the wood for the back plate, if not I’ll use the wood for solid bodies. So here’s a little video to tell the story…..

What I didn’t say in the video was that the board itself is 38mm thick, I like the wood for the back plates to be 17mm thick before carving, so I only had 4mm to allow for the cutting! I must admit that I was chuffed that I achieved that!

When the sapele if freshly cut it is very pinkish; one thing that I’ve learnt, is that sapele loves finish, so just to give you an idea of what it could like, I sprayed some water on it.

The irregular grain pattern of the wood makes joining the two pieces for the back plate a bit tricky. In spite of a super sharp plane, you still get some small tears.

 So, I’ve found that sanding them with this tool that I made up, works incredibly well.

You can see how the dust collects in the tears, when they’ve gone you’re ready to glue.

I recently treated myself to some new light weight sash clamps from Axminster and this was the first outing- really easy to set-up and use.

The neck and tail blocks have been glued in place, to join the two sides together. Although there are lots of clamps, only one is applying pressure to the glue joint, the rest ensure that everything remains aligned accurately.

The neck is being made from some lovely flamed maple and as always, the neck is laminated for extra stability. This one with black veneers and a strip of sapele to visually tie in with the back.

More soon ;)

Using up my precious stuff (wisely) OR archtop mandolin #3

Whilst we’re waiting for the Tru-oil to harden on Dave’s e-mando, no good twiddling thumbs, on with the next archtop!
Over the years, I’ve built up quite a collection of exotic tonewood, and I feel a responsibility to use it in the best way that I can. As the pieces aren’t particularly large, I need to be imaginative. So, for my next archtop mandolin, I’m going to incorporate into its construction, as much Brazilian rosewood, from my collection, as I can.
One aspect that will be a bit unusual is that although I’m using the Rio for the sides, its carved back will be made from figured maple.
I’m going to do another series of videos, but try to cover different aspects of the build, not covered in the previous two build video series.
So here’s the first dealing with bending the sides and making the rim.

Archtop Video

As promised the video...........

Archtop Mandolin Completed (and For Sale)

I’ve just completed the walnut archtop mandolin and am so pleased with the outcome. I’ve got an old Gibson T-shirt that says “Tone, Feel, Appearance” and I’m pleased to say that I think I’ve fully fulfilled those criteria. It is also the first time that I’ve used JJB soundboard transducers and they seem to produce an impressive tone even through my cheap and cheerful amp.

So below are number of photos for you and the full spec. I’ll sort out the obligatory video over the next couple of days!

 13 7/8” (352mm) Scale length with 30mm nut width

American Black Walnut back & sides

European Spruce top

Body fully bound in Ebony

Bird’s Eye Maple neck with carbon fibre stiffeners

Compound radius Ebony fretboard with wide gold EVO frets

Nava handmade tailpiece

Nickel Gotoh MA-40 tuners

JJB Soundboard Transducers with endpin jack

A light open-pore shellac satin finish

D’Addario EJ74 strings (011, 015, 026, 040), bone nut & saddle

Price: 1360 GBP (including Hiscox case) + shipping

You’ve got to have vision!

When I saw this rather sad looking scribing block on sale for 50p at the local car boot sale, I knew exactly what I wanted it for.

To cut the rebate for the archtop’s bindings, I made up a cradle to hold the body steady. The scribing block allowed me to check that the edge of the top plate was at the same height, all- around prior to routing………..

The video will be out soon!

Top Plate I

I’ve just finished the shaping and thicknessing of the archtop mandolin’s top plate. The external profile takes a long time to shape: checking against templates, shaping the re-curve, ensuring symmetry etc.etc! But carving the internal surface is much quicker as “all you need to do is” check its thickness with callipers.

At the same time I’ve been trying to record some of the top’s physical attributes to allow for objective comparisons when the next one is built.

Here I’m using a dti to measure the deflection when a 1kg mass is placed on it: this will give me an idea of the top’s stiffness.